From Samarkand to Mazar-i-Sharif: A Journey Through the Land of Hashish

The Silk Road is not merely a route etched into the earth by the footsteps of merchants and pilgrims; it is a living artery, pulsing with the memories of those who have traveled it. For centuries, it carried not only silks and spices but also ideas, beliefs, and traditions. Among these was the cultivation of cannabis, a plant that found its way into the rituals and daily lives of people across Central Asia. Today, much of this heritage has faded, erased by the tides of history and politics. Yet, in Afghanistan, the flame of this ancient tradition still burns, defiant and enduring.

This is the story of a journey—from the blue-domed splendor of Samarkand to the dusty streets of Mazar-i-Sharif—a pilgrimage through the heart of hashish culture. It is a tale of contrasts: between the past and the present, between what has been lost and what remains. And, like all journeys, it is punctuated by moments of surprise, reflection, and unexpected encounters.—a story you’ll have to read in full in my book, “Afghanistan, Fortress of Cannabis.”.

The Historical Context: Turkestan’s Hashish Legacy

The historical region of Turkestan, which included parts of modern-day Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, north-western China and northern Afghanistan, was once famous for its cannabis cultivation and dry-sieved hashish production. Cities like Samarkand and Bukhara were renowned for their high-quality hashish, which was traded along the Silk Road and imported by the British in the Subcontinent during the British Raj.

However, the Soviet invasion and subsequent policies, including the International Opium Convention, led to the decline of cannabis culture in Uzbekistan and other parts of Central Asia. Afghanistan, on the other hand, managed to preserve its traditions, becoming the last bastion of Turkestan’s hashish legacy.

Samarkand: Echoes of a Forgotten World

Samarkand is a city that wears its history like a crown. Its turquoise domes and intricate mosaics speak of a time when this was the crossroads of the world. Here, under the shadow of the Registan, caravans once unloaded their treasures, and the air was thick with the scent of spices, tea, and hashish. The cannabis culture of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva was once renowned, a tradition as finely woven as the carpets that adorned the bazaars.

But time, like the wind that sweeps across the steppe, has a way of erasing what was once familiar. The Soviet era, with its iron grip, uprooted much of this heritage. In the tea houses of Samarkand, where poets and traders once gathered, there is now only the faintest whisper of what once was. The hashish that once flowed freely through these streets has vanished, leaving behind only the ghosts of memory.

As I wandered through the city, I felt the weight of this absence. Samarkand is beautiful, yes, but it is a beauty tinged with melancholy, as the renovated ancient monument feel 3D printed, like a traditional song on Auto-Tune .

Crossing the Amu Darya: Into the Heart of Afghanistan

From Termez, the border town where the Amu Darya river marks the divide between Uzbekistan and Afghanistan, I crossed into a different world. The air seemed heavier, the colors more vivid. The landscape, rugged and unyielding, mirrored the resilience of the people who call it home. Here, the traditions of the Silk Road have not been forgotten; they have been preserved, like a treasure hidden from the world.

The road to Mazar-i-Sharif was a journey through time. The villages along the way were simple, their mud-brick walls blending into the earth. Yet, in these humble settings, the spirit of hashish culture thrived. It was in the fields of cannabis, stretching toward the horizon, and in the hands of farmers who tended to their crops with a care passed down through generations.

Mazar-i-Sharif: The Soul of Hashish

Mazar-i-Sharif is a city of contrasts. Its streets are alive with the bustle of commerce, yet there is a stillness at its heart, a sense of timelessness. Here, the traditions of hashish are not relics of the past but a living, breathing part of daily life. In the chillum houses, men gather to share stories and laughter, their faces illuminated by the glow of the pipe. The hashish they smoke is more than a indulgence; it is a connection to their heritage, a thread that binds them to their ancestors.

I was a stranger here, an outsider in a world that felt both foreign and familiar. Yet, the people of Mazar welcomed me with a generosity that humbled me. They shared their stories, their food, and their hashish, offering a glimpse into a culture that has endured against all odds.

Balkh: The Cradle of History

A short distance from Mazar lies Balkh, one of the oldest cities in the world. Its ruins are a testament to the passage of time, yet its spirit remains unbroken. Here, I visited the workshops where hashish is made, the air thick with the scent of cannabis. The artisans worked with a skill that seemed almost magical, their hands transforming the raw plant into something sublime.

Balkh is a place where history feels alive, where the past and present coexist in a delicate balance. It is a reminder that, even in the face of change, some things endure.

Key Stops Along the Way

Sholgara: A Hidden Gem in the Mountains

Nestled in the foothills of the Hindu Kush, Sholgara is a small but significant destination for cannabis enthusiasts. The village is surrounded by cannabis and coton fields, where farmers grow some of the finest landrace strains in the region.

Tashkurghan: A Crossroads of Culture and Cannabis

Located along the ancient Silk Road, Tashkurghan is a melting pot of cultures and traditions. The town’s markets are a hub for trade, and its chillum houses are lively and welcoming.

An Unexpected Detour: The Shadow of the KGB

The journey was not without its trials. On my return to Termez, I found myself detained by the Uzbek National Security Service, the heirs to the Soviet KGB. For a week, I was caught in a web of bureaucracy and suspicion, a stranger in a land that felt increasingly alien. The experience was unsettling, yet it was also a reminder of the complexities of this region, where the past is never far from the surface.

The full story of this encounter is one I have saved for my book, “Afghanistan, Fortress of Cannabis.” It is a tale of tension, paranoia and resolution, of the unexpected twists that make travel both challenging and rewarding.

Why Afghanistan’s Cannabis Culture Matters

Afghanistan’s cannabis culture is more than a curiosity; it is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit. Afghanistan’s cannabis culture is more than a curiosity; it is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit. In a world that often seeks to homogenize, it stands as a reminder of the beauty of diversity, of the traditions that make us who we are.

This journey, from Samarkand to Mazar-i-Sharif, was not just a physical passage but a voyage through time and memory. It was a chance to witness a culture that has survived against the odds, to connect with people whose lives are shaped by the land and its traditions.Afghanistan’s cannabis culture is more than a curiosity; it is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit. In a world that often seeks to homogenize, it stands as a reminder of the beauty of diversity, of the traditions that make us who we are.

Explore the Journey Through My Photo Book and Products

For those who wish to delve deeper into this world, I invite you to explore my photo book, “Afghanistan, Fortress of Cannabis.” Through its pages, you will find not only the beauty of Afghan hashish culture but also the stories of the people who keep it alive. The book is a celebration of a way of life that is both ancient and enduring, a tribute to the spirit of the Silk Road.

In addition to the book, I offer a range of related products, including:

• Fine Art Prints: Bring the beauty of Afghan cannabis culture into your home with my high-quality art prints.
• Posters and Postcards: Perfect for cannabis enthusiasts and collectors.
• eBook Versions: Available in English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese.

Epilogue: The Road Continues

The Silk Road is not a path that ends; it is a journey that continues, carried forward by those who walk it. From Samarkand to Mazar-i-Sharif, the road is lined with stories, each one a thread in the tapestry of human experience. And as long as there are those who seek to understand, to connect, and to remember, the road will never truly fade.

If you’re ready to dive deeper into the world of Afghan and Central Asian cannabis culture, don’t miss my photo book and related products. Click here to explore my collection and bring a piece of this fascinating history into your life.